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7.02.2010

What to Bring

 

Peanut butter – You won’t find the PB in the PB & J as it is quite rare to find them at regular markets.  In fact, I never found it.  Luckily I met an American that was living in Turkey who happened got a care package from her family and gave me a jar for my peanut butter fix.

Waterproof boots – If you are going in the winter, you will encounter a lot of rain and snow.  A good pair of weatherproof walking shoes or hiking boots will be perfect. Of course you can always get it when you get to Turkey, but it'll be expensive and poor quality.

Travel Adapter Plug – The outlets are the two round pin a 230 V. So make sure you get the right adapter and that your electronics would work with the 230 V.



 

ladies

Tampons – You could find them in Turkey, but there are not a lot of choices.  The only brand I saw was OBs.


Cosmetics – Although a lot of thing are cheaper in Turkey, cosmetic is not one of them.  Mid-range cosmetic brands like Maybelline and Cover-girl are almost double the price in Turkey.  On a side note, while the Californian look is all about natural make-up, Turkish make-up trend is a little heavier with dark black eyeliners, bright eye shadow and prominent blush.   You may want to start practicing.

 

What NOT to bring

8.5" X 11" – Don’t even bother lugging folders, notebooks, and school supply from U.S.  because not only is it cheap in Turkey, but like most of Europe and Asia, they use A4 which is 8.27" x 11.69". 

4.08.2010

Turkish Educational System

English As a Second Language

Turkey’s national language is obviously Turkish, but English is also a required language in school, especially at the college level.  It isn’t like America, where learning a foreign language in high school is required, but students are not expected to be fluent in it.  Students in Turkey began to learn English when they are around 4th to 5th grade. In some schools it begins right away in1st grade.  My Turkish buddy told me that some high schools will do one full year of only English classes and then everything is taught in English, but in others English may be taught throughout the four years.  When they reach college they will have a year of “Prep School” in English.  During this time they will not take any courses for their majors, but only English courses to polish up their English so they can prepare for the later years of college courses that are mostly taught in English.  After the completion of the courses they will take an exam that will determine their English proficiency.  If they do not pass then they have to retake that year of “Prep School”.

1.18.2010

çay

Turkish çay is usually condensed black tea mixed with 2 parts hot water, served with sugar cubes.  The loose leave tea can be a blend of different stuff, but mostly black tea. 

ÇayÇay is made with a çaydanlık ( two stacked kettles ) where you boil hot water on the bottom and steam the team on top.  First, you boil hot water and pour it into the top kettle, already filled with a lot of tea for that strong brew.  You let that tea sit and brew for 18 minutes on top of the bottom kettle of hot boiling water.  You let this sit on the stove at low heat.  This will give you a very strong and hot tea.  To serve you pour 1 part condensed tea and 2 part hot water.  The tea are served in a tulip shape with a saucer and stirring spoon.   I drink it everyday!

1.17.2010

Turkish Dessert

There are so many different kinds of Turkish Desserts.  One of the more common and famous one among the foreigners are Turkish Delights and Baklava.  Turkish delights are like gelatin candy, chewy and usually with some sort of nuts inside.  My favorite one has to be the traditional whitish color one with pistachios.  It is a great pairing with Turkish Coffee. 

Baklava is a pastry filled with nuts, usually pistachios or walnuts , covered with syrup.  Usually I find it way too sweet and overwhelming.  But, if you tried the one I had in Gaziantep, then you’ll love it.  The place is call Celebeci Yes.  It was sweet but it was much lighter and the fluffiness was still there. 

Künefe is cheese filled pie.  The crust is made of wired phyllo, so it gives it a crunch  and inside is filled with kaşar cheese, a young, light, white cheese that resembles mozzarella.  Topped with a syrup this dessert is interesting.  The cheese is still stringy and chewy.

All these deserts are completed with a cup of çay or Turkish coffee

IMG_5203

Big triangular piece is the Künefe, the square one on the very top is the Baklava. 

12.21.2009

grocery shopping

Pazar

The pazar is the best place to get fresh vegetable.  They even have fish, eggs, dried goods, and fresh bread.  It is like Farmer’s market but much cheaper.  There are different vendors selling the same stuff, so you have to walk around and find the best place with the cheapest prices and freshest food.  You can usually bargain with them, but since it is so cheap I usually don’t bother.  You can buy half a kilo so just say “yarım kilo”. 

IMG_5634

METU: There is a pazar in Yüzüncüyıl if you walk up from Sunshine cafe.  It is right next to the supermarket Çağdaş.

Supermarkets

Most of the commercial food, like cereals, canned goods, soda would have to be bought in super markets.  There are a couple that I remember:  Şok, Çağdaş, Carefour.

12.17.2009

Street food

Street Corn

I don’t know about you, but I am an adventurous eater.  That is why I got all my shots and particularly Hepatitis A shots.  If you have a good immune system and not afraid then try some of the street food.  I really like the Midye Dolması mussels stuffed with rice sold for only 50 kuruş (cents) each.  Street vendors will usually stand their with a pan of Midye doması, you’ll walk up and he’ll keep opening mussels for you until you had enough.  With a squeeze of lemon juice, this is an excellent midnight snack. IMG_5067

And of course, I always enjoy a corn on a cob, steamed or grilled.

 

Turkish kahve

Turkish Kahve Turkish Kahve is strong!   The first time I had it was at a friend’s house at 9 pm, I couldn’t sleep till 4 am!  Maybe it was the fortune that came along with it that made me think but no doubt it does keep you up.  For first-timers it may not be very good, that’s because it is an acquire taste.

Turkish coffee is made from a very finely grind coffee, cooked in a cezve (a very little stove top pot/cup with a long handle and spout, usually made of cooper).  Unlike any other coffee you might have had, Turkish Kahve has residues!  There is a lot of grind on the bottom of the cup, so you never drink to the bottom.  Instead, you sip the top, which really isn’t much, in considering that a serving is the size of an espresso.  That is another reason you got the get all that is worth of a cup.  You read the fortune from the coffee grind.   

Turkish kahve fortune

After sipping what is drinkable, you place the saucer on top.  Flip it over and then move the cup and saucer in a circular motion towards you (personal) or away from you ( depending what you want to ask.  Let it sit until it cools, you can tell by touching the bottom of the cup.  You can then lift it open and let a fortune teller read it to you.  If it does not want to open, DON’T.  It is not meant to be read.

The fortune teller will then read the little pictures formed by the coffee powder and water and tell you everything.  Even the saucer has a story.  Wash the cup if you want what you heard to come true,  if you don’t, have someone else wash it.

Making turkish kahve

Every girl is expected to make a good cup of kahve, so they can serve it to their husband or something. The process is not easy.  One of the better brands is Mehmet Efendi (pictured). 

  1. Measure one cup (kahve cup, similar to an espresso cup) of water and pour it into the cezve. 
  2. Add in about 2-3 teasonpoon of coffee.  Mix well.
  3. Place over stove at low heat
  4. Stir while it heats up
  5. Scoop up the foam that starts to form on the top, that is the good stuff.  Keep doing that until it is done.
  6. When it starts to bubble, it is done.  DON’T let it boil because that means it is burnt.
  7. Pour all of it into the cup! Enjoy!  Great with a piece of Lokum.

You can also add sugar/milk in the beginning.  Make sure you mix the milk with water or it’ll be too thick and well the grind will not settle as well.

Face Tattoos

When I was invited in for tea in Harran, I noticed that the older ladies had little markings on their face, specifically on the chin and lip area.  These body tattoos sometimes are extended to the hands and usually marked with very simple designs.  When I asked my Turkish friend about them he told me that these villages may be bored so they tattoo each other.  When I posed the question in class, I didn’t get a realistic answer either.  After investigating I found out that these were Arab custom that distinguish them from different clans.  They are no longer common among the younger ladies, but sometimes visible among the older group.  No wonder when I asked my peers, they didn’t know.  They are probably too young or not of Arabic origin to see and question this.  Here is what professor R. Dietrich has to say:

It is a purely Arab custom but seems to be fading - younger women
are less enthusiastic about being tattooed to show their tribal
affiliation. I attached two pictures I took in Urfa in 2006 of these
tattoos.

Urfa - Arap Kadını ve Dövmeleri Urfa - Arap Kadının El Dövmelerı

courtesy of R. Dietrich

12.14.2009

Chinese in Turkey

There are not many Chinese living in Turkey, however I managed to meet some at school.  I guess it is the connection in ethnicity, you know, how we like to be with those who are similar to us.  Well, it all started couple months ago when I was at walking to class, I saw an Asian girl passing out 'Moon Cakes'.  I was so excited since I love Moon Cakes and it reminds me of home.  That is another thing, being in Turkey makes realize how much I miss and need Chinese culture.  Being in California, and specifically Hacienda Heights, a very Asian community, allows me to have that and sometimes I don't even realize it.  I talked to the girl, Sarah, and she invited me over to where her club was tabling.  There I met Annie and other Chinese (from mainland China) students.

It turns out that many of the students came to Turkey purely for school.  I am guessing it was easier and cheaper than going to Europe.  After all, getting into college is not easy in China; you must get really good grades and have a stunning test score on the one time college entry exam.  Most of them were able to come because they have family members here. However, to my surprise, they don't really like it here.  They told me that they feel unaccepted and too much of a minority.

I got to know Annie over the pass 3 month.  After our history class we would usually eat lunch together.  I love eating at her house; she would always make amazing Xin Jiang food.  I may have eaten a lot of Chinese food at home, but most of it is Cantonese food, which is know for its light and pure characteristic in taste.  Xin Jiang food is so different and so delicious.  It is usually seasoned with fennel, anise, and five spice. 

THE PARTY

Annie invited me over to her friend's house party.  It was her best friend's uncle, Brother Dragon, who is now a close friend of hers.  Brother Dragon left his family and wife in China to come to Turkey to work at a Chinese restaurant.  He works early in the morning till 10pm at night.  Although his housing and utilities included, he only makes about 1,000 TL/month.  This makes me think about the Chinese who went to America in the early half of the 20th century for the same reason.  They left behind their family and friends to go to another country where they don't speak the language and not familiar with the culture in hope to make enough money in a couple of years to go back to live a decent life.  Although Brother Dragon is in a much better situation than early Chinese migrant workers, but I can't help thinking what he might be going through.

Brother Dragon and his co-worker/flat mate made us some Chinese dishes like Marinated Duck, Spiced Chicken Wings, sliced cucumber with sugar, turnip kimchi, and Spicy lamp stir fry to go with the beers.  It was delicious. 

Hanging out with them was quite different from what I have experienced.  I think it is the fact that they are Chinese from mainland China and not the usual  Chinese that  I know back home, who are mostly from Taiwan or from Hong Kong.
After food, we took turn singing.  I was expecting karaoke with music and lyrics, but nope, we just went down the row and we each had to sing a song. We sung everything from modern Chinese-pop, English songs, lullabies, Chinese folk songs (Mountain songs), to Chinese national songs.  I was so embarrassed, because not only don't sing well, ok I sing horrible, but I can't remember any lyrics, English or Chinese.  So I would sing two verse or I would sing "Twinkle, Twinkle" or "It's a Small World".  But despite this, I had a lot of fun and by the end of the night I was really into it and chiming in whenever I know the song. 

The song choices were different.  When my friends back home and I go to karaoke we would only sing songs from Hong Kong and Taiwan artists.  Thus, my Chinese music knowledge is limited to that, the only songs/music from mainland China I know are the old ones my dad listens and sings to.  Luckily they only sang a couple that I never heard, most I know or at least have heard of.  To my surprise I recognized and could somewhat follow the older songs that were way before my time, like "lu bian de hua bu yao cai" and Theresa Teng's songs.   It was so fun singing along and singing half the lyrics and humming the rest. That is another thing about me,  I might be born and raised in America, but I still keep in touch with my Chinese culture like in music.  Sometimes I frighten myself and others that I even know songs from my father's time.
But really, there was just something there and singing "Zhong Guo Xin" (Chinese Heart) that made me feel something original yet new.  I guess it was the hospitable and friendly people, the house with the Chinese calendar and a picture of some Buddhist statue, the crummy wooden table that sits on a stand, or the unglamorous and clutter kitchen.  I am not poking fun of the way of living in China, because from what I know this is reality.  This is much like the home and life that the majority of the people in China live in, not the rich and well-off folks that gets represented. I think I have viewed Chinese culture and the people through a distorted glass.  The Chinese culture and the Chinese I know are what my parents, what the Chinese American community, or media taught me.  Never did I question how authentic is it.  That culture has been altered by and adapted American influences (Americanized). Of course, Chinese living in China would also be influenced by western cultures, like we see in most of the big cities, but I think it is to a less extent and that there are still some who can and have refrained from it.  I wouldn't think most families in China would celebrate Thanksgiving or July 4th or have all the home goods we often take for granted.

What made this moment so interesting is that I felt like I was in China, not in Turkey.  It felt really like the moment was really authentic although I'm not sure if it is since I haven't really seen the real thing either.  But  I feel in touch with my root, and I like it.   I think I will start listening to some of the older traditional Chinese folk music.

11.30.2009

Trip to Southeast Turkey

Map picture
Over the Bayram weekend I traveled to Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa, Harran, and Antakya.  After that I went to Syria.  Actually it was more like a 8 day weekend, or else I would not have enough time.  I went with a group of people from the other college, Bilkent with the group leader Firat.  He basically had done this trip multiple times so he knows where to go and what to do.  Half the time I just follow the duck!  It’s a nice way to travel.  ;)

Since we have such a large group of people and a fluent Turkish guide, we got some great deals on hotels and transportation.  The golden rule is BARGIN and NEGOTIATE.